Solo Hiking Mount Puigmal, Vall de Núria Route: My Unforgettable Adventure in the Spanish Pyrenees

Overview

Distance: 13.8 km
Average Duration: 6–8 hours
Difficulty Level: Intermediate
Total Elevation Gain: 1,107 m
Start/Finish: Vall de Núria ski resort – Vall de Núria ski resort

Note: The Vall de Núria resort serves food, drinks, and accommodation. If I did this hike again, I would stay at the hotel so I could leave earlier and skip paying for the rack rail twice.

A challenging circular hike to the summit of Mount Puigmal, the highest mountain in the area and one of Catalonia’s tallest peaks, offering spectacular views throughout the ascent and from the summit itself.

Planning Your Hike to Mount Puigmal

Getting There

I flew from Bournemouth Airport to Girona, stayed one night, and then made my way to Ribes de Freser, the gateway to Vall de Núria. I used two buses for this route, although there is a faster train to Ribes de Freser—just make sure to arrive at the station at least 20 minutes before departure.

Best Season to Hike Mount Puigmal

I completed this Mount Puigmal hike in May, but the best time is late spring through summer when snow is minimal and trails are clearer.

Permits & Fees

No hiking permits are needed. However, the rack railway from Ribes de Freser to Vall de Núria costs around €32 return and is the only way to reach the trailhead unless you hike in.

Water & Food

There aren’t any good water refill points once you leave the resort, so carry at least two litres. Pack high-energy snacks or lunch, even if you’ve eaten beforehand—you’ll burn through energy quickly on this challenging Pyrenees mountain hike.

Where to Stay: Ribes de Freser and Vall de Núria

There are plenty of accommodation options in Ribes de Freser, from hotels to dorms. I stayed at Hotel Els Caçadors de Ribes, which was lovely and cost-efficient.

For those planning multiple days of hiking in the Catalan Pyrenees, Hotel Vall de Núria is the most convenient. It’s pricier but saves the rack rail cost if you’re hiking more than one day.

My Mount Puigmal Hiking Experience

In May, I set off on a solo and unforgettable hiking adventure in the Spanish Pyrenees, with the goal of summiting Mount Puigmal. Being close to Bournemouth Airport, the affordability of flights to Girona made this region especially appealing. The journey had its fair share of challenges, but those obstacles made it even more rewarding.

Upon landing in Girona, I had planned to catch a train straight into the mountains. Unfortunately, things didn’t go quite as expected. Arriving at Girona train station 25 minutes early, I tried to buy a ticket to Barcelona Sants and then onward to Ribes de Freser. The process was confusing, and I couldn’t find anyone to help. When I finally reached the desk, I was told I couldn’t take the next train as passengers must arrive 20 minutes prior. I only had 15.

Instead, I opted for the bus to Ribes de Freser, which was cheaper but took longer. After several hours and a transfer at Jutjats, I reached the picturesque town of Ribes de Freser, nestled in the foothills of the Catalan Pyrenees. The language barrier was a surprise—my Spanish practice didn’t help much as locals mainly speak Catalan—but everyone was kind and patient, which made me feel instantly welcome.

From Ribes de Freser to Vall de Núria

The next morning, I woke early to catch the first rack railway up to Vall de Núria. While getting ready, I realised I’d forgotten something rather crucial—my hiking trousers. Girona had been 35°C, so I hadn’t packed any except my lightweight waterproofs. Feeling silly, I decided to hike as far as I could and see if I could buy something for the next day.

The train ride to Vall de Núria was breathtaking, climbing through mountain ridges and gorges toward the snow-covered Pyrenees peaks. I was the only passenger besides staff, which made it feel like a private scenic journey. As we rose into the snow-capped heights, I knew it was going to be a day to remember.

Starting the Trail: Vall de Núria to Mount Puigmal

Arriving at Vall de Núria, I was initially disoriented, trying to read my map in a landscape that felt both stunning and unfamiliar. After some wandering, I found a well-trodden path and decided to follow it. Using my phone for basic navigation, I set off alone into the mountains. The quiet was almost overwhelming—no people, no sounds, just the vast beauty of the Pyrenees. I spotted several small mammals I didn’t recognise, which looked a bit like gophers or beavers.

Eventually, I hit a steep section of the Puigmal trail that I couldn’t safely tackle without proper equipment. With no phone signal and still no one around, I decided to turn back, planning to try again the next day. I’d learned a few lessons about pacing and preparation. It’s worth noting there are wild animals here, including brown bears (rarely seen) and vultures circling above.

The Summit Attempt

The following day, I returned on the first train, finding the correct trail entrance just beside the resort. Setting off at 8:00 a.m., I followed clearer markers—painted rocks and occasional signposts. The forecast warned of afternoon thunderstorms, so I aimed to finish by early afternoon. As I climbed higher, the landscape changed from green meadows to snowy slopes.

Around midday, the snow became thick and treacherous. I had no crampons or ice axe, and began feeling uneasy. Just as I was considering turning back, I saw a lone figure approaching through the snow. His name was Ramone, a seasoned local hiker who had summited Puigmal before. Despite our limited shared language, we agreed it was safer to continue together via a gentler ridge route.

The climb grew tougher, the snow deepening and soaking through my boots. After hours of steady effort, we reached the final ridge beneath the summit. The wind was fierce and the cloud thick, but we pushed through, encouraged by fresh footprints leading from the French side. At exactly noon, we stood at the summit of Mount Puigmal (2,913m)—on the border between Spain and France.

Though the view was hidden by clouds, the feeling was extraordinary. We took a few photos, admired the summit markers, and began descending quickly to beat the storm. By the time we reached the valley, the sky had darkened and thunder echoed across the mountains.

We shook hands, said goodbye, and I reflected on how this hike had become more than a physical challenge—it was a reminder of the bonds created through shared adventure, even without words.

Final Thoughts: Why Hike Mount Puigmal

My hike up Mount Puigmal in the Spanish Pyrenees was everything I’d hoped for and more. It was tough, breathtaking, and unexpectedly emotional. If you’re planning to hike in Catalonia’s high mountains, I highly recommend adding Mount Puigmal to your list.

Be prepared for sudden weather changes, bring the right gear (especially trousers!), and remember that even when things go wrong, those moments often make the adventure unforgettable.