Explore the Spanish Pyrenees: Your Guide to Hiking Mount Puigmal

Overview

Distance: 13.8km

Average Duration: 6-8 hrs

Difficulty Level: Intermediate

Total Elevation Gain: 1,107m

Start/Finish: Vall de Nuria ski resort - Vall de Nuria ski resort

• Note: The resort serves food and drinks and accommodation. If I did this hike again, I would stay at the hotel so I could leave earlier and skip the cost of riding the rack rail twice.

A challenging walk to the summit of the highest mountain in this area and one of Catalunya’s highest peaks with spectacular views both during the ascent and from the summit.

Planning

• Getting There: I flew from Bournemouth airport to Girona, stayed one night then made my way to Ribes de Freser using two buses. There is an alternative train that is quicker but you must arrive at the station at least 20 minutes before departure.

• Season: I completed this hike in May but it’s best to plan for late Spring/Summer to avoid a lot of snow.

• Permits & Fees: There aren’t any permit of fees, however the rack rail is necessary from Ribes de Freser at a cost of € 32.00 return.

• Water: There aren’t any good places to refill water after you’ve left the resort. It’s best to prepare 2 litres for this hike.

• Food: Even if you’ve eaten before you go it’s best to pack high energy snacks as you’ll be burning through energy when it becomes challenging.

Accommodation

Theres lots of accommodation options around Ribes de Freser from hotels, to dorms. I stayed at Hotel Els Caçadors de Ribes which was lovely, and cost efficient.

For hiking or skiing it is best to consider Hotel Vall de Núria. It is more expensive but will save the cost pf the rack rail if you’re planning more than one day hiking.

Hotel Vall de Núria is the most common option.

The Hike

In May, I set off on a solo unforgettable hiking adventure in the Spanish Pyrenees, specifically to summit Mount Puigmal. Being based close to Bournemouth Airport, the affordability of flights to Girona drew me to this region. The journey, however, was not without its challenges, but these obstacles only enhanced the experience.

Upon landing in Girona, I had originally planned to catch a train directly into the mountains. However, things didn’t go as smoothly as I had hoped. I arrived at Girona train station 25 minutes early to purchase my ticket to Barcelona Sants and then to Ribes de Freser from there. When I arrived, I was confused by the machine, I tried to get some assistance but there wasn’t anyone around to help. I got a ticket and waited my turn to see speak to someone at the desk. Eventually I was seen but informed I couldn’t get the next train as I had to be 20 minutes early. I now only had 15 minutes until the train was due to arrive. Apparently, this is not acceptable even though the platform is a 30 second walk from the desk. I opted for the bus instead, it is cheaper but does take longer. After several hours and a bus swap at Jutjats I arrived at the charming town of Ribes de Freser, a picturesque Catalan village nestled in the foothills. I wasn’t prepared for the language barrier; I had rehearsed my Spanish but Catalan is spoken here. The locals were incredibly kind and patient, making me feel welcomed right away. After a long travel day, I rested in Ribes, mentally preparing for the adventure that lay ahead.

The next morning, I woke up early to catch the first train of the day, the rack railway from Ribes de Freser to Vall de Núria. As I was getting ready, I noticed I’d again forgotten something quite important, my hiking trousers. As Girona was around 35 degrees, I hadn’t actually packed any trousers at all, other than my lightweight waterproofs. I felt stupid but figured I could go and do as much as I could today and see if I could purchase something for the following day. I made my way to the station. The train ride was breathtaking the route cut through steep mountain ridges and deep gorges, ascending toward the snow-covered peaks of the Pyrenees. The only other passengers were the staff, which made the experience feel even more special. As the train climbed higher into the snow-capped mountains, I knew this was going to be a day to remember.

Beautiful views of Ribes and the station

Arriving at Vall de Núria, I found myself a bit disoriented, trying to decipher my map in a landscape that was both unfamiliar and stunning. After some trial and error, I stumbled upon a well-trodden path and decided to follow it. Using my phone for basic navigation, I set off into the mountains. The quiet of the trail was almost overwhelming, with not a soul in sight for hours. The beauty of the landscape, the towering peaks, and the deep silence made it feel like I had stepped into another world. I came across a lot of small mammals that looked like gophers or beavers. I’ve never seen these before so it was quite interesting for me.

My first view from the hotel, and what I was looking at shortly before decided to turn back

However, I eventually encountered a steep section of the trail that I simply couldn’t conquer without the proper equipment or support. Without any phone signal, and still not seeing a single person I decided to turn back and try again the next day, knowing I had learned valuable lessons about pacing myself and being prepared. It’s also worth noting there are some wild animals, although unlikely to spot there are brown bears in the region and I did spot vultures circling overhead.

The following day, I returned to Vall de Núria, again catching the first train. This time I found the correct entrance (literally to the side of the resort) and set off at 08:00, the trail was more clearly marked, with painted rocks and occasional signposts guiding the way. The weather forecast predicted thunderstorms in the afternoon, so I aimed to return by around 14:00. As I moved higher into the mountains, the landscape shifted from lush green meadows to colder, snow-covered terrain. The climb was more physically demanding, and I found myself alone once more.

My first views on the trail

Around noon, I reached a point where the snow had become thick and treacherous. At this stage, I was feeling increasingly uneasy. I didn’t have crampons, an ice axe, or another person to help in case of emergency. There wasn’t meant to be any snow at this time of the year! It was at this moment I noticed a figure advancing toward me through the snow. As he got closer, I was relieved to see that he had a GPS device attached to his jacket, this made me feel less alone, and much safer.

The man, named Ramone, was a seasoned hiker who had summited Puigmal before. Despite the language barrier (we could only communicate in broken English and Spanish), we quickly agreed that it would be unwise to continue up the mountain alone. Ramone explained that the trail markers were covered by snow and the traditional path was not visible. Instead, he suggested we take a safer route via the ridge, which would add some time but would have a gentler gradient.

We continued together, battling through deepening snow that at times swallowed my legs whole. The climb was exhausting, every step was a struggle as the snow grew deeper and my boots began to fill with water. Still, we pushed on, stopping occasionally to catch our breath and regain our strength.

After what felt like hours, we finally reached the foot of the last hill before the summit. The wind had picked up, and visibility was poor due to a thick cloud that had settled in. Despite the adverse conditions, we decided to push forward. At one point, I even considered turning back, it was clear that there was a real risk of avalanche, and the temperature had dropped significantly.

But then, to my surprise, I noticed fresh footsteps leading up the ridge. Someone had summited recently from the French side. This gave me renewed energy, and I called out to Ramone, who was trailing behind. Together, we made the final ascent, and by exactly 12:00, we stood at the top of Mount Puigmal, almost 3,000 meters above sea level.

The clouds coming in from the ridge, and me at the top

Though the view was obscured by the cloud, the sense of achievement was overwhelming. We took a few pictures and chatted briefly, with Ramone pointing out the French border, marked by metal poles sticking up from the ground. The descent was quick, both of us eager to avoid the impending storm.

Rushing down the steep side of the mountain

We raced down the mountain, each of us determined to get to safety before the storm hit. Along the way, we continued our fractured conversation, grateful for the unexpected companionship. Once at the bottom, we shook hands and exchanged goodbyes. I couldn’t help but feel that the hike had turned into something more than just a physical challenge, it had become a reminder of how shared experiences can create bonds, even without words.

My hike on Mount Puigmal was everything I had hoped for and more. The challenges, the beauty, the unexpected companionship, it was a truly memorable experience. If you’re ever in the Spanish Pyrenees, I highly recommend this hike but do take care and be prepared for the unpredictable nature of the mountains. And, most importantly, remember that sometimes, basic trousers are better but apparently not something that should stop you.