Explore the Atlas Mountains, Morocco: Mount Toubkal

Overview

Distance: 37.0 km

Average Duration: 2 Days

Difficulty Level: Intermediate

Total Elevation Gain: Day 1- 1,540 m Day 2 - 1,130 m

Summit height: 4,167 m

Start/Finish: Imlil– Imlil

Hiking Mount Toubkal in Morocco is a challenging but rewarding trek to North Africa's highest peak. The hike takes place in the High Atlas Mountains, and offers panoramic views of the region.

Planning

• Getting There: I took a taxi that was arranged through Tour Radar but I saw a lot of coaches travelling to Imlil. I believe you can get a bus from Marrakesh to El Kelaa des Sraghna, and then a taxi from there to Imlil to save money.

• Season: I visited in early Spring; I’m told it’s best to visit in summer.

• Permits & Fees: There aren’t any permits or fees required but a guide is mandatory.

• Water: I carried 2 litres, but more is available to buy on the way.

• Food: My food was covered by the tour but I took some high calorie snacks.

Accommodation

Imlil has a variety to chose from, ranging from smaller dorm style rooms to hotels.

Toubkal refuge is the only option once you’ve left Imlil… other than camping.

Most commonly people join a tour with accommodation included.

The Hike

I booked this trip through TourRadar (Trek in Morocco). I was travelling solo so thought it best to have a guide. After some basic planning I got a cheap flight from Gatwick to Marrakech. I stayed in Marrakech for one night to prepare and was picked up via a taxi at around 9:00. The taxi took about two hours to arrive at Imlil, a lovely remote town in the Atlas Mountains. I was excited to get my first view of the mountains. My first stop was to find the nearest shop to get a walking pole as Gatwick security wouldn’t allow me to carry a hiking pole as carry-on luggage. I had that pole for many years and was extremely annoyed but they said I could collect it upon my return…. I never did find the area to collect it.

Upon arrival the hotel owner and a guide introduced themselves, there was a slight language barrier but the hotel owner at the guest house explained we’d be taking a hike for acclimatising and then returning. We set off through the town where the guide told me about the history of the town. We gradually made our way through a slight gradient before arriving at a lookout post. We stopped for lunch, and enjoyed the view. I met a chap from the U.K who was hoping to attempt Toubkal alone. He mentioned some concerns about a snowstorm that was due. We headed back to Imlil, I noticed my new boots weren’t feeling great on my ankles.

Early start the next day, we headed out at first light, it was great seeing the mountains coming to life. This part of the hike was fairly boring, but Mohammed did well to pass the time telling me about the trees, and surrounding areas. The path was well established but not sign posted. We reached a checkpoint with guards who check passports. Mohammed dealt with these chaps. This is common but I was a bit taken back by a non-uniformed guard with a pistol on his belt. As we passed by, I noticed the guards shouting at someone who appeared to be trying to skip the checkpoint. Even from my distance I could tell it was the chap I’d met the day before trying to avoid paying for a guide. He eventually gave in and veered towards the guards. I’d recommend paying for a guide, the authorities are responsible for maintaining safety and the Moroccan government have made a guide mandatory following several deaths.

The views were getting better and better as we gained altitude. We made several stops at the teahouses on the way. I enjoyed Moroccan tea and snacks but noticed my heels weren’t doing so well at all. I used some plasters and elastic tape I had packed.

As we approached Toubkal Refuge it began to snow. At first it was quite light, and I assumed this was just the change in altitude, but it became a lot heavier. Mohammed informed me the refuge wasn’t far away, we didn’t need crampons at this point, but the snow was sticking enough to cover my feet. I saw a man sitting down, he seemed to be finding it difficult (as was I at this point) I asked if he was okay, he seemed fine. I noticed the refuge in the distance and was grateful to see it. The refuge was warm and inviting. I was shown to my dorm that was quiet, due it being May 2022 and Covid still affecting tourism. I had some food and got to sleep early ready for a 02:00 start.

I woke up early and as I was getting ready, I realised I had left a vital piece of kit in Imlil…. My buff. The temperature on the summit was predicted to be -25 degrees! It’s fair to say I panicked. I checked through my bag to see if I had anything I could use as a substitute. Oddly I noticed I’d packed a spare (clean) pair of boxer shorts. I think I got the buff and boxers mixed up because they’re a very similar colour and material…. Very similar. Well, they were clean, so I popped the boxers on, and you know what, no one said a thing.

I went out to the front of the refuge to prepare my gear, ice axe and crampons. Mohammed double checked my crampons. Several others were setting out at the same time. Two couples, myself, and a total of three guides. The first part was extremely tricky, I’d prepared a lot of clothing but felt instantly hot and sweaty. Hiking in the snow isn’t easy if you’re not used to it. We found our pace as a group and made our way in the dark.

As we climbed through the fresh snow a tiny avalanche appeared, just enough to cover our feet. We all stopped so the guides could perform some checks. We continued but after about another five minutes another avalanche was triggered, this one just coming up the knee. We stopped for some time and one guide was sent ahead to make checks. After some time, we moved on cautiously. It was quite exciting but also scary as it was pitch black, the only lights coming from our headlights. A little further on we experienced another avalanche, this one almost swept me off my feet. We had a discussion. It was very sad but understandably the decision was made to return without summiting. The mountain authorities had closed the mountain due to the snowstorm. No one ascended Toubkal that day.

It's fair to say I was annoyed. I asked Mohammed if I could return as soon as possible, he kept asking me to wait and have a break, suggesting I get some sleep. I didn’t want to sleep; I wanted to get back to Marrakesh to drown my sorrows and rest my ankles by a pool. The language barrier caused some issues. Eventually myself and another couple persisted enough that the guides took us back down the mountain. When we got out of the snow, I understood why they’d asked us to wait, the stone track we entered on was now thick with ice. Crampons were no good, it was just a case of being careful and using the walking pole a lot. We made it back to Imlil and after a delicious tagine I felt better about the whole thing.

It was the correct decision not to continue. Toubkal is still there; I’ll get around to it someday.